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Rodarte

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NEW YORK, September 14, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Kate and Laura Mulleavy found inspiration for Spring in their backyard. Make that their childhood backyard. The sisters, who now reside in Pasadena, grew up in Northern California, and it was the redwoods native to that part of the country from which this collection sprouted. On the phone the night before the show, Laura promised "every shade of brown you can imagine, seventies suburbia, wood paneling, gold, off colors like chartreuse—basically, a combination of all the things that represent the area to us."

If that sounds like a recipe for a signature Rodarte mash-up, this wasn't a predictable collection. The Mulleavys have moved on from the artful dishevelment and studied quirkiness of their last few seasons to embrace a seductive new precision. Having shed their nomad layers for the most part, their models wore such uncomplicated yet accomplished looks as an hourglass dress with cutaway shoulders; a cropped jacket and matching wrap skirt in stamped leather; a wood-grain-print blouse sliced high on the torso to reveal a provocative flash of skin above pleated trousers; or, even more simply, a black lace blouse tucked into a tiered mint skirt.

The Mulleavy sisters are still dreamers, though—a gladiator dress whipstitched together from squares of burnished gold leather was easy proof of that. And their references are still all over the map; what did the gorgeous blue and white Ming vase evening dresses have to do with redwoods? And they haven't abandoned eccentricity entirely: The platform wedges were carved from wood, metal, and pyrite cubes into butterflies and flowers. But they seem to have done a fair bit of growing up over the course of a season. This beautiful and provocative collection will do nothing to quell rumors of LVMH's courtship of the Mulleavys.

Cynthia Steffe RTW Spring 2011 - WWD.com

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Shaun Kearney’s lineup drew from retro jet-set glamour but he should have stayed away from some of the dowdy prints and stuck to his more modern versatile pieces such as very cool double knit ponchos, nylon anoraks and tuxedo-inspired looks.

Costello Tagliapietra RTW Spring 2011

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Costello Tagliapietra RTW Spring 2011

Costello Tagliapietra RTW Spring 2011

Posted Friday September 10, 2010

From WWD.COM

This could be Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra’s lucky day, as some real fashion refinement is in the air, making it the perfect moment for the duo’s traditionally elegant, slender dresses in soft-toned georgette or jersey.

Ports 1961 RTW Spring 2011

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Ports 1961 RTW Spring 2011

Ports 1961 RTW Spring 2011

Posted Friday September 10, 2010

Last Edited Sunday September 12, 2010

From WWD.COM

Fiona Cibani is taking over where her sister Tia left off, so this season marked somewhat of a debut. The effort appeared pretty, if blah. There were the expected draped dresses in lovely desert-inspired prints and colorful satins that swirled around the body, but the iridescent crystal-embellished pieces and basic trousers missed their mark.